The Game of Acquisitions: How M&A is Transforming Streetwear and Sneakers
Big brands are buying authenticity and exclusivity to redefine global urban fashion
The world of streetwear and exclusive sneakers has evolved from an urban subculture into a global phenomenon, driven by the desire for authenticity, individuality, and the status that comes with owning rare, and limited-edition products. Over the past few decades, this segment has experienced explosive growth, merging fashion, art, and popular culture in a unique way, that attracts not only young people but also collectors, enthusiasts, and celebrities.
From Subculture to Mainstream: The Story of Streetwear
Streetwear emerged in the 80s and 90s, inspired by skate culture, hip-hop, and the urban communities of cities like New York and Los Angeles. This movement was characterized by its focus on self-expression and rebellion against established norms, giving it an authentic, countercultural character. What began as a niche movement quickly spread globally, and today, high fashion brands like Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, or Dior have incorporated elements of streetwear into their collections, collaborating with iconic brands of this culture and launching limited-edition products.
At the heart of streetwear are sneakers, which have evolved from simple functional shoes into a symbol of status and a collector’s item. Exclusivity in streetwear and sneakers has transformed the way fashion is consumed. Beyond functionality or design, what truly defines success in this market is rarity and status. Consumers seek not only a quality product but also something that sets them apart, something few others can own.
Streetwear brands have evolved from independent subcultures to fashion industry giants, attracting the interest of investors and multinational corporations.
This scarcity economy has generated a multi-billion-dollar secondary market, where sold-out products are resold at exorbitant prices. Collectors and resellers play a crucial role in this ecosystem, with some sneaker models reaching values in the thousands, or even tens of thousands, of dollars. The pursuit of exclusivity has fostered a vibrant community that passionately tracks every release, trade, and auction.
The Intersection of Cultural Integration and Strategic M&A
The global mergers and acquisitions (M&A) market has played a crucial role in the expansion and consolidation of the streetwear and exclusive sneakers sectors, integrating these countercultural brands into larger fashion conglomerates, allowing them to grow and achieve global reach. This phenomenon reflects how streetwear brands have evolved from independent subcultures to fashion industry giants, attracting the interest of investors and multinational corporations.
One of the most notable examples of this trend was VF Corporation’s acquisition of Supreme in 2020, a transaction valued at over $2.1 billion. Supreme, which began as a skate shop in New York in the 90s, became an emblem of global streetwear, known for its limited editions, exclusive collaborations, and a business model based on scarcity and “hype.” The acquisition allowed VF Corporation, owner of brands like The North Face, Vans, and Timberland, to increase its presence in the streetwear market and attract a younger, more diverse audience. In 2024, optical group EssilorLuxottica acquired Supreme from VF Corporation in a transaction valued at $1.5 billion.
Another significant partnership in this context is the alliance between Adidas and Yeezy, Kanye West’s sneaker brand. Although it was technically not an acquisition, the collaboration between the two parties since 2015 has been crucial for the growth of both brands. Yeezy, which began as a highly limited sneaker line, has become one of the most profitable sneaker brands of the last decade, generating billions in sales for Adidas. This collaboration allowed Adidas to strengthen its position in this market, competing directly with Nike and its Air Jordan line.
However, the relationship between Adidas and Kanye West dissolved in 2022, illustrating one of the inherent risks in these alliances: the potential volatility of collaborations, influenced by human factors, and the potential erosion of brand identity in the case of controversies.
Major brands use the M&A market not only to diversify their product offerings but also to expand their presence in specific market niches.
An example of how acquisitions can consolidate and expand a company’s portfolio in the sneaker segment is Nike’s purchase of Converse in 2003 for $305 million. Converse, an iconic sneaker brand, was revitalized under Nike’s ownership, introducing collaborations with artists and designers that placed it back on the radar of collectors and streetwear enthusiasts. This move allowed Nike to reach a different audience, complementing its dominance with Air Jordan and other exclusive lines, such as the SB Dunk Low.
This acquisition is a clear example of how large brands leverage the M&A market not only to diversify their product offerings but also to expand their presence in specific market niches.
Since 2020, driven by Covid-19, there has been a shift in fashion and footwear consumption trends, toward a preference for more comfortable and personalized options. The rise of streetwear has captured the attention of global conglomerates, as this segment has become one of the most profitable in the fashion industry, with sustained projected global growth. The globalization of exclusive streetwear and sneaker brands has been significantly propelled by mergers, acquisitions, and strategic collaborations. This shift has enabled originally niche brands or those focused on specific urban cultures to penetrate international markets.
Expanding Horizons: M&A as a Key Growth Strategy
The growing intersection between luxury brands and streetwear has also catalyzed mergers and acquisitions. Louis Vuitton, for example, has collaborated with brands like Supreme, while Gucci and Balenciaga have launched lines that blend elements of streetwear with haute couture. This type of cultural fusion has prompted luxury conglomerates to take an interest in streetwear brands as a way to access a younger, more diverse market.
In this context, the Italian luxury brand Moncler acquired Stone Island in 2020, a clothing brand with a strong identity in the streetwear world, known for its technical fabrics and functional design aesthetics. In the same year, the luxury fashion platform Farfetch acquired a strategic stake in Palm Angels, part of the New Guards Group. Additionally, Carlyle Group, a well-known private equity firm, acquired the Italian luxury sneaker brand Golden Goose, recognized for its distressed style and limited production, in 2020. Other notable transactions include LVMH’s acquisition of 60% of Off-White, the brand founded by Virgil Abloh, in 2021. In 2022, Highsnobiety, the leading platform in streetwear and sneaker culture, brought in Kering, a luxury brand group, as a minority shareholder.
The success of these collaborations has sparked the interest of major luxury groups in acquiring streetwear brands to capitalize on their cultural relevance and reputation in youth fashion. As casual luxury gains traction, acquisitions in this space are seen as a way to consolidate a new vision of luxury where authenticity, exclusivity, and limited access are key values.
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